Transitioning A Client From Platinum Blonde to Natural Blonde
By: Jolie Faulkner
Transitioning a client from platinum blonde to a more natural shade can be quite the project. No matter what shade you take them to, it is sure to be a shock at first. I find clear communication, and realistic expectations set in the consultation, can really dictate a good outcome, and happy client.
First, we set a long term goal of what the client would like to see. Then, we set several short term goals, and explain clearly how we are going to get there. It’s that you will be able to achieve the ultimate result in one session, and more likely you will be seeing your client regularly leading up to the final result(because of inevitable fading due to the lack of pigment). The unpredictability of over processed platinum blonde can leave you wondering what results you’ll be able to achieve. This is where I like to always “under promise, over deliver.”
Laura has been wearing her hair platinum blonde for 8 years. She is recently married, and looking for a change. To say she was nervous, is an understatement. We discussed all the different options and desires, and decided to take it very slow to off set the shock of the change. We formulated so that any time we could reverse the results easily, and revert back to the original platinum blonde with minimal damage to the hair.
Her hair is surprisingly strong, and I 100% owe this to using the Organic Color System Naturlite lightening powder Blue. We have always done a revamp treatment after her apts. But, even with her good porosity, we still don’t know how much or how little she would take the color.
She came to me today with 1/4 inch level 7 regrowth, and the rest was white blond. I decided to work with the healthiest parts of the hair, and create a natural fade from roots to end. This way her hair is still platinum, with a natural regrowth look. We discussed that this was the first step to changing her color, and we could keep evolving it slowly till we found the right shade for her.
I began by mixing 20g of 11HS, 7g of Silver concentrate, 3 g of DXAH, with 30 g of 30 vol creme activator. I started in the back where her hair is naturally darker and worked my way to the front, applying only to the 1/4 inch regrowth.
At the same time I was applying the base color, I was also applying my second formula of 15g. 8GD, 7g. 7NN, 7g. 6TO, 3g. silver concentrate, 3g of naturalize oil, 30g. of 10 vol creme developer. The extra oil, and NN are to ensure the color absorbs in the white hair. I applied this second color to the 1 1/2 to 2 inches of hair under the 1/4 regrowth. While applying the second color, I also gently back combed my sections to smudge, and transition the color.
After I completed application on the whole head, I processed at room temp, with no cap for 15 minutes. Rinsed, shampooed, and used the Morrocan Organics mask under the dryer for 15 min. Note: I processed at room temp without a cap, but this is not typically the norm with Organic Color Systems. I would like to add that I did this because it is an advanced technique to process only the first 1/4 ” of regrowth with the heat on her own head, and to give me more control over the lift. Overall, these are the results I got:
The color is very natural looking. The transition from regrowth, to mid shaft, to ends is seamless. The client was very happy. I will keep you updated as her color evolves over the next few months. I made sure she does not wash for at least 48 hours, and she knows to contact me if the color changes, or fades to something different than what we discussed. Again, this is where open communication with your clients can give realistic expectations of your abilities. We are not magicians after all, or are we…