How do you become a better hair colorist? How do you ascend to the level of artistry where the amazing quality of your client’s hair is your best advertising? Becoming a world-class hair colorist, and consistently delivering incomparable results, can be boiled down to one simple formula. This is the PMP Principle of Healthy Hair = Protein + Moisture + pH.
The Nature of Natural Hair
Unlike human skin which is a living organ, hair cannot repair itself. It is a balance of protein and moisture, which keeps it in good condition with natural shine. Permanent hair color resulting in truly healthy, beautiful, vibrant hair can only be achieved if you can properly balance the hair’s natural protein and moisture levels, maintain the ideal isometric pH balance of the hair, avoid damaging or sacrificing the hair’s structural integrity, and preserve the hair’s essential proteins. This is a delicate process that even the most experienced colorists can rarely, if ever, achieve because they lack the proper products. Organic Color Systems makes achieving these delicate balances easy to achieve for every client.
Protein levels in hair are around 83% to 87%. Moisture levels are about 3%. The only difference between your hair and nails is the 3% moisture. The balance is composed of sugars, salts and other trace elements. If this essential balance is maintained, the hair will stay healthy, strong and in good condition. If the hair is lacking protein it will lack strength and its ability to “hold” color. If the hair is lacking in moisture it will be brittle, dull, and lack shine. Treating the hair for optimum health and vitality must start with refusing to destroy it first.
Protein and moisture both reside inside your hair within a system of springs that are suspended in a glue-like material called fatty acid. This structure is protected from the outside by seven to eleven transparent layers of interlocking scales called the cuticle. Damaging the cuticle during treatment will result in loss of protein and moisture which leads to dull and brittle hair.
Proper hair care and maintenance is a function of pH, which is the measure of acidity and alkalinity. The pH scale goes from 0 (the most acidic) to 14 (the most alkaline). Pure water has a pH of 7 and is the neutral point. The ideal level for hair, skin and nails is actually somewhat acidic between 4.5 and 5.5 on the pH scale. This is considered to be the hairs “ideal Isometric pH”. Through the exposure of chemicals, pollutants, or even water, the hair can become slightly more acidic or alkaline than it’s ideal range. This can either damage the hair (acidic) or cause the cuticle to swell open (alkaline). Managing a proper pH level of hair is an essential part of maintaining the hair’s health.
Because the hair’s isometric ideal pH is slightly acidic (4.5 – 5.5) and pH neutral is 7, proper hair care requires maintaining the hair at slightly acidic levels. As the hair is exposed to our environment, the pH levels of the hair will have a tendency to change. Proper hair care will regularly counteract the effects of the hairs environment and adjust those levels back to the hair’s isometric ideal pH level.
• The key to healthy hair and incomparable color results is the simple formula Healthy Hair = Protein + Moisture + pH. Very few hair colorists will ever strike this delicate balance because the products traditionally used are counterproductive to achieving this balance.
• The hair is comprised of 83% to 87% protein and only 3% moisture. Although a small percentage, the moisture in hair is very important. The only difference between the composition of hair and nails is the 3% moisture.
• Maintaining healthy hair is a function of pH. Because pH neutral is 7 and the hairs ideal isometric pH level is 4.5 – 5.5, hair pH levels should be regularly adjusted back to their slightly acidic isometric pH levels.